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But when I got better I hiked to the top of the hill and bought custom boardshorts from a pair of deaf brothers. One night I accidentally drank the water, got sick, and momentarily hated El Salvador. I got back to La Libertad as quickly as possible and continued surfing and making friends. The club almost didn’t let me in ‘cause I was wearing sandals. That night I met two Peace Corps girls and we went dancing. I played blackjack and accepted the house’s free food and drinks while they accepted my losses. I saw them - took me about 45 minutes, they were mostly just crumbling stones with grass growing through them - and then hit the casino. Later in my stay I took the bus a few hours inland to see some Mayan ruins. He didn’t mind that it was an American holiday. We fished, surfed and on the Fourth of July launched fireworks off of his balcony. Jimmy and I became good friends he was gracious in letting a kid tag along with him and his buddies. I surfed twice a day, using the long rights to learn hone my barrel riding and rail skills. A local lady rented me a room in her house for $10 a week and I was a two-minute walk from a Rincon-like pointbreak. The school was a crock but I decided to stay anyway.

Look - they’ve got a website and everything. It’d be good for my college application, I lobbied. And I’d convinced my parents that the summer before my senior year was best-spent learning, instead of living the Groundhog’s Day of surfing in the morning, golfing in the afternoon and partying at night. “Surf and study Spanish in La Libertad!” The website had said.

As Jimmy continued with the dos and don’ts of life around town, I pictured a crack dealer with a brand-new shirt and Peseta floating the coastal streets looking for a new mark. His counsel was sound, and while I knew that the point was sketchy and the water was tainted, about an hour earlier I’d treated Peseta to lunch and given him a T-shirt. It was my first day in El Salvador and the guy advising me was my new friend, local surfer Jimmy Rotherham. “And don’t walk up the point with anything valuable, don’t drink the water…” “Don’t give anything to Peseta - he’ll turn it straight into crack.”

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